Whisk together flour, salt, and sugar in a large bowl. Cut in the cold lard with your fingertips or a pastry cutter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs with a few pea-sized pieces remaining.

Add ice water a tablespoon at a time, mixing with a fork after each addition. You want a stiff dough that just holds together — it should not be soft or sticky. You may need slightly more or less than 1/2 cup depending on humidity. Stop as soon as the dough comes together.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board or clean counter. Using a mallet, rolling pin, or the flat side of a cleaver, beat the dough firmly and steadily. After each series of strokes, fold the dough in half, turn it 90 degrees, and beat again.

Keep going for 20 to 30 minutes. The dough will become smoother and more elastic. After about 15 minutes, it should start to blister. When you fold it and it snaps, and the surface looks slightly glossy with small blisters, the dough is ready.

Combine flour, salt, sugar, and lard in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse 8 to 10 times until it resembles coarse crumbs. With the machine running, add ice water through the feed tube until the dough forms a ball. Continue processing for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough is ready when it is smooth and slightly glossy.

Roll and cut

Preheat your oven to 325°F (165°C).

Roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface to about 1/4 inch (6mm) thickness. Cut with a small round cutter, approximately 1.5 to 2 inches (4 to 5cm) in diameter. Re-roll scraps once.

Place on an ungreased baking sheet. Prick the top of each biscuit three times with a fork (the three-hole pattern is traditional and helps them dry evenly).

Bake for 22 to 25 minutes until pale gold on top and lightly golden on the bottom. They should feel firm and dry, not soft. Do not overbrown — they should be pale.

Cool completely on a wire rack before splitting.

Split each biscuit through the middle with a sharp knife. Tuck in one or two thin slices of country ham or prosciutto. Serve at room temperature.

Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to one week. They actually improve after a day or two, which is why they were Derby hamper food.