Lemon ice, rum and Champagne, served halfway through dinner. Here’s what Roman punch was, how it differs from the Titanic’s punch Romaine, and how to make it in 10 minutes of work.
The Gilded Age returns to HBO on November 1, and the most telling course at an 1880s New York dinner wasn’t the roast. It was a small glass of frozen punch that arrived mid-meal. If you want one thing from that world on your own table, make this.
The short answer: Roman punch is a frozen lemon ice mixed with rum and finished with Champagne. It was served halfway through formal dinners in the 1800s and early 1900s to refresh the palate. Roman punch and punch à la Romaine are the same drink: one name is English, the other French.
What is Roman punch?
Roman punch was a palate cleanser with a kick. It came between the roast and the game course, giving guests a pause before the second half of a long dinner.
It was also a signal. Edith Wharton described a formal New York dinner in The Age of Innocence as three extra footmen, two dishes for each course, “and a Roman punch in the middle.” If the punch arrived, the host had spared no expense.
The original was strong. A handwritten recipe from 1874, now held by the University of Iowa, mixes lemon water ice with brandy, rum and maraschino liqueur, then thins it with Champagne at the table.
Roman punch vs. punch Romaine: what’s the difference?
They’re the same drink under different names. Punch à la Romaine is French for “Roman-style punch,” and it’s the name that appeared on fine-dining menus. Roman punch is the English version, used in American cookbooks, newspapers and novels. Punch Romaine is a shortened form of the French. (It has nothing to do with lettuce.)
The recipe changed with time and place, though:
| Roman punch (American, 1870s to 1890s) | Punch à la Romaine (French style, 1900s to 1912) | |
| Base | Lemon ice | Champagne syrup with orange and lemon |
| Spirits | Rum, often brandy and maraschino too | Rum poured over or around the ice |
| Meringue | Often folded in | Italian meringue folded in |
| Champagne | Poured over at the table | Mixed into the base |
| Best known from | The New York Times recipe of 1879, Wharton’s New York | Auguste Escoffier’s 1903 recipe, the Titanic’s first-class dinner on April 14, 1912 |
The Gilded Age table served the American style. The Titanic served the French one, and a great English house like Downton would likely have done the same, since fashionable Edwardian menus were written in French. For the 1912 version, see my Titanic Punch Romaine.
How to make Roman punch the easy way
The original took hours: lemon ice made from scratch, then a meringue beaten with hot sugar syrup. This modern shortcut starts with good store-bought lemon sorbet, so the work takes 10 minutes. The freezer does the rest.
When to serve Roman punch
- Between courses, as the Gilded Age did: after the roast, before the next course arrives.
- On The Gilded Age premiere night, November 1, while you watch who gets invited to dinner.
- On New Year’s Eve, when Champagne is open anyway, and a frozen course feels like an occasion.
Planning the whole dinner? Here’s how The Gilded Age entertains, with a four-course premiere-night menu.
Frequently asked questions
Is Roman punch the same as punch Romaine?
Yes. Punch à la Romaine is the French name and Roman punch is the English one. The recipes varied by country and decade.
What was Roman punch served with?
It was served on its own, halfway through a formal dinner, between the roast and the game course.
Was Roman punch served on the Titanic?
Yes. Punch Romaine was on the first-class dinner menu on April 14, 1912, the Titanic’s last night.
Can I make Roman punch without alcohol?
Yes. Leave out the rum and brandy, and top it with sparkling white grape juice or ginger ale.
How long does Roman punch take to freeze?
About 45 minutes with store-bought sorbet. Longer if you add more rum.
A final thought
Roman punch was the course that said: “this evening matters.” It still works. Ten minutes of stirring and a splash of Champagne turn an ordinary dinner into an occasion, which is exactly what a Gilded Age hostess had in mind.
Roman Punch (Gilded Age Frozen Lemon Punch)
Ingredients
- 2 cups good-quality lemon sorbet softened for 5 minutes
- 3 tbsp. light or gold rum
- 1 tbsp. brandy optional
- 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
- 3/4 cup chilled Champagne or dry sparkling wine
- 3/4 cup gingerale for non alcoholic version
Instructions
- Chill 6 small glasses in the freezer.
- Stir the sorbet, rum, brandy and lemon zest together in a chilled bowl until smooth.
- Cover and freeze 30 to 45 minutes, until it is a firm, spoonable slush. The alcohol keeps it from freezing solid.
- Spoon about 1/3 cup into each glass.
- At the table, pour about 2 tablespoons of Champagne over each one. Serve right away with a small spoon.
Notes
• Alcohol-free: skip the rum and brandy, and top with sparkling white grape juice or ginger ale.
